Sundays with Larry An Old Man, A Young Man, And the Beach.
It's been a slow summer here at Alan's Endless Summer. Unfortunately I think I'm going to have to wait until next year before I catch some good waves. There's been some decent surf but I've just been too busy to get down to the cape. I've been a little preoccupied.
Anyway, when Holly's parents came down to visit for a week at the end of August I decided that I would invite Holly's Dad to spend a weekend day Alan-style. I checked the weather and it looked fine. It had been too hot the day before but Sunday was only going to be in the low 80's and the water temperature down at Cape Hatteras was going to be just about the same as the air. The only problem with the day was that we would be arriving right at the peak of high tide and the best surf conditions are during low to high. But it would be a nice day to just sit at the beach and dad wanted to see my secret Pea Island surf spot so we packed up the board and drove down to North Carolina.
We arrived about 1:30pm. As usual, the beach was pretty much empty as far as the eye could see. Just like I like it.
Dad walked down to the water and that little speck to the right is me running out into the waves.
I played around for a few minutes but the waves were much too big and rough for me to surf. The conditions were described on one of the surf websites that day: "The wind is coming off the ocean & giving the some size. But the sections are being pushed over." Basically what that means is the waves were breaking too close together and on top of each other. There were a few people out trying to surf that day but no one ever really was able to stand up.
I posed for a few pictures with my new board but I was going to wait and see if it calmed down before I tried to ride.
We walked up the beach and took a few pictures. I went out every now and then to test the water and the side current which was very strong that day. Eventually Dad decided he was going to at least step out and play in the waves.
We stopped for a second to watch a guy who tried to kite-board for a few minutes. Maybe it was John Kerry?
Some of those waves were pretty big. When you stood in the surf many of them broke 2-4 feet over your head. Dad must have been knocked around pretty good out there because one minute he was crawling in from the waves and the next....
...he thought he was in a Girls Gone Wild video. What a party animal!
Here's the best part. I got some great video clips of Dad body surfing. He was the Big Kuhuna on the beach that day!
I decided to go out a try a few waves before we left for the day
But, like the others who had tried, I never really got to my feet. Hopefully when Mom and Dad come down next summer we can all go again and they can get some pictures of me actually surfing for real.
It was a nice day though and with nobody to the North and nobody to the South it was like our own private ocean.
Finally we stopped at Goombays for my favorite Fish Tacos, then bought Slurpies at 7-11 and drove back as the sun set over the ocean.